Lesson 4

Lesson 4 is dedicated to bodice designs involving dart manipulation. 

This lesson continues to develop on the draping skills learned in Lesson 2 (draping a basic bodice and skirt).  We then added the French dart (text p. 70) in Lesson 3. Several new bodice styles were demonstrated in class today.  They included: 1) the armhole dart (p. 72), 2) the centre front dart (p. 74), and 3) the waist/side dart (p. 76).   The Curved dart (p. 83) and intersecting darts (p. 85) were also demonstrated.  The intersecting dart will be reviewed at the beginning of Lesson 5. 

Homework due for Lesson 5:  the French dart drape and paper pattern plus 3 other bodice drapes chosen from the ones demonstrated in class.  A total of 4 different front bodice muslin drapes are due along with their corresponding paper patterns.  This is worth 5% of you mark. 

Also due Lesson 5 and presented Lesson 6 – is the visual references and research for your proposed design, Project #1, (the original design using dart manipulation).  Be prepared to present your design along with inspirational materials, research and a technical drawing.  Project #1 will be much easier to do if you are clear about what you are trying to achieve.  You can adapt the design when you are draping.  However, starting a draped design without a plan is not as successful as beginning a design with lots of imagination, inspiration and planning.  Bring in proof of your planning and  be able to talk about and present your proposed design.  This is worth 5% of your mark.

Review Questions for Lesson 4:

1.  After preparing your fabric for draping, what is the first step is draping a “dart manipulation” bodice style?  The draper aligns the lengthwise and crosswise grainlines.  A centre front grainline is established and then the bust point is marked and secured with pins.  Any dart manipulation style can be developed around the fixed bust point.  This is similar to the concept of dart rotation in pattern drafting. 

2.  Where is the ease typically placed in a bodice style developed using dart manipulation?  The ease is added at the lower armhole,  at the armhole side seam and at the side waist. 

3.  What is the difference between a bodice style that is developed using dart manipulation and a contour drape style?  The contour drape has less ease and this closer fitting style follows the curves of the body,  Strapless styles are often developed through contour draping. 

4.  What can you do if you trim too much fabric when draping a bodice?  You can ignore the error and pin on another piece of fabric.  Correct this error in the paper pattern. 

5.  What are our class pattern labeling standards?  Include the following on a pattern: your name, pattern style, piece name, grainline, size (a real world reference such as hip size is best), notches. Make a note of seam allowance amounts if they vary throughout the pattern. 

6.  What seam allowance should be added to a pattern?  This depends on what the pattern will be used for.  If the pattern is a sample pattern, subject to alteration, then wider seam allowances are preferable.  If the pattern is to be used for RTW mass production then the seam allowance is most likely 1cm or an amount determined by the serged seam.  Hem allowances vary.  A circular hem has less seam allowance than a straight hem.  Mass market garments have less hem allowance than higher end lines.  Seam allowance depends on the garment, where the seam is located and the end use of the garment pattern (custom, high end or mass market RTW). 

7.  What are some examples of dart equivalents?  Dart equivalents include: gathers, tucks, dart tucks and darts converted to seamlines.